![]() ![]() This was the trail of my dreams, a style that was featured heavily on the CDT and explains why I love that trail so well. The thin ribbon of crumbled rock tread cut a bright track across the green slopes, disappearing into a stand of dwarf pine, reappearing on the next bald shoulder, carrying my imagination with it. The trail swooped from a T-junction both left and right, riding along the steep edge of an open ridge line. What waited on the other side was the transition between land and air. I felt my spirit take flight as we passed over flat top of Mont Matawees. I recognized them as stages where Spice and I had acted out a string of one-off performances, the memories of which I hoped to carry with me for a long time. However, their significance did not fade in my mind. Looking back, the streaked cliffs of Nicol-Albert and the inconspicuous plateau of Mont Blanc, once so prominent, now faded into the crowd of anonymous green lumps. Ferns to grass, hardwood to stunted pine. As we ascended, the flora changed to reflect the transitioning climate zone. ![]() Nicol-Albert? Mont Blanc? Or just another hill amongst many.Ī solid gray ceiling and cool temperatures provided perfect hiking conditions to ease us into the day as we chugged up the final crux of the long valley. A pot of Spice’s hot coffee washed it down and pushed us from under the roof, back onto the trail. And with a seemingly bottomless food bag, I had no reservations about indulging my raging hunger, gulping granola and trail mix like the good ol’ days on the AT. My guts were feeling great after Spice’s tender care last night, so I could fart with satisfying impunity, which seems like a small thing until that privilege is misplaced. The day broke full of optimism after a peaceful night of sleep in the shelter. I was excited to reach the sea, but not before a final frolic above treeline. Now it was time to enjoy the ride over and around the final major summits of the Canadian itinerary, if not of the rest of the entire ECT. In Matane, we’d proven to ourselves that we could hack it in these mountains. All the postcard pictures I’d seen of this mysterious Chic-Choc sub-range of the greater Appalachian Mountains were taken within Gaspésie. Not that the coming miles and mountains would be a cruisy victory lap, but something about the “national park” designation seemed to promise exceptional reward for the exceptional effort. Now we looked ahead to Gaspésie, arguably the jewel of the IAT, or so I had come to speculate. Matane had been hard, no doubt about it, and we had made it through feeling stronger than ever thanks to Spice’s considerate planning. Marking this milestone, in combination with successfully collecting our resupply boxes yesterday, I felt a lightening of the mental load. Near the top of the spectacular Mont Matawees we exited Matane, soon trading the intimidating wariness of that notoriously difficult section of Quebec for the excited anticipation of Gaspésie National Park. įor all the latest Vegas dining intel, subscribe to Eater Vegas’s newsletter.Ruisseau Bascon Shelter to Le Kalmia CampsiteĮlevation change: 5417ft gain, 5597ft lossĪ gradual climb to start the day carried SpiceRack and me into the alpine and the next phase of this adventure. See something missing or want to add your favorite? Hit up the tipline. The shuttered Every Grain, Oyster Bar at Palace Station, and DW Bistro are departing. The update includes recently reopened Tim Ho Wan, a go-to for off-Strip Spanish fare Valencian Gold, and the ‘80s-inspired Napal Baji Pub. Each quarter the list is updated to include restaurants that have newly become eligible (restaurants must be open at least six months), those that have reshaped their approach in a significant way, and others that reflect the culinary dynamism that Vegas and its surrounding suburbs have to offer.įor the hottest restaurants that opened in the past six months in Las Vegas, readers can head over to the Eater Vegas Heatmap, updated monthly. Welcome to the Eater 38, the answer to any question that begins, “Can you recommend a restaurant?” This group of essential restaurants covers the entire city, spans myriad cuisines and price points, and collectively satisfies all dining needs, from where to go for a reliable quick bite to the best splurge meal. ![]()
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